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AntiNano Bucket & Frequency Control Device

Antinano Bucket & Control Unit

In this video I am showing you my antinano bucket and a prototype frequency control unit that I build in order to control the frequency of the pulses.

How to build the bucket, in the most simple way and still be efficient, you can find at the three following  videos from Tony Pantalleresco and also a step buy step guide that he has put together.

In this blog are also included three formulas to use with the bucket.

If you want to make a similar control unit, or the simpler one with the flasher, send me an email via the “contact us” page and contact form.  Or check it in my eshop via the following link

How To Use it

There are three formulas to use with the antinano bucket / pail.

Formula 1

  • 11.36 liters (3 US gallons) of White Vinegar
  • 1/8-1/4 cup of salt
  • stir
  • Connect power supply
  • Sit with either one foot or both in the bucket with the coil activated in the pulsating mode for 20-30 minutes

Formula 2

    • 11.36 liters (3 gallons) of Distilled water
    • 1-2 caps of DMSO
    • 1/8-1/4 cup Citric acid
    • 1/8-1/4 cup Salt (non fluoridated)
    • mix 
    • connect power supply
    • Sit with either one foot or both in the bucket with the coil activated in the pulsating mode for 20-30 minutes

 Formula 3

  • 1/8 cup TSP
  • 1/8 cup Salt
  • 1/8 cup Citric Acid
  • 12  (3-3.5 US gallons) Distilled water
  • mix
  • Connect the bucket with the power supply
  • Sit with either one foot or both in the bucket with the coil activated in the pulsating mode for 20-30 minutes

How To Build the Bucket

The Following are copied from the guide that Tony Pantalleresco has put together and you can find here



The Beginning of AntiNano Protection

The Process has just begun!

Step 1

Materials for making the AntiNano Bucket (for the basic form of construction) -You will need

  • 5 US gallon (18.9 lt) bucket
  • Minimum 5 amp laptop power supply
  • cutters and crimp
  • Tape (double sided duck tape)
  • Alligator clips
  • Electric tape for isolation

Step 2

The 5 gallon pail or bucket for the AntiNano effect.

Step 3

Start  taping the Bucket with double sided duct tape sided. If you do not have any double side tape then take any duct tape and flip it so that the adhesive side will be facing you.

Step 4

This is what the taped bucket will look like when completed the adhesive side (sticky side will be out the non sticky side will be against the bucket).

Step 5

Getting Started to wrap, ( see now you’re a wrapper a bucket wrapper).

Tape the wire on the top of the bucket after you get 2 feet (70cm) or so, from your wire supply.

Tape the wire on top of the bucket in a coil, so it does not get in the way, but allow for the tape to come of, so you can release the wire at the end.

Step 6

As you can see, you just start to “coil” or wrap the bucket and you try to keep it as tight as you can to the proceeding wrapping. If not just go back and re thread the wire around the bucket~ it will work if there is a little space so do not be concerned to a point of frustration- your not running a race and your not punching a clock! You are building a means to assist you in your health against the nano afflictions.

Step 7

This is progressing as the wire is being wrapped or coiled. Turned on the bucket you can see it is pretty uniform with some slight gaps -again do not worry about that, but do try to get them as close as you can so you have a uniform or a wiring that is pretty good-

Step 8

This is the Bucket completely wired, or coiled, or wrapped, all the way and you just tape the ends at the other end when you finish so that it does not unravel and you cut another 2 ft (70 cm), of wire from the spool or container.  You are getting your wire so you have about 2 ft (70 cm), on each end of the bucket.

Step 9

Preparing the wires to be stripped or spliced. so that you will take off the insulation and have exposed wire so you can later use the ends to attach, or to add whatever closures you see fit.

Step 10

Stripped or Spliced Wire and you can see  the exposure -this will require to cut into the outer insulation enough to separate the piece of insulation from the rest of the wire and then to pull off the severed piece til you see the exposed wire.

Step 11

As you can see, now we have both of the wires spliced or stripped so that the exposed ends can now be connected to the power source.

Step 12

Power Supply and what you are now going to do is prepare the power supply to attach the bucket so you can produce the field to set you free.

Step 13

Here  you are measuring off about a 2 inch (5 cm), distance ( or a centimeter) after you cut off the end the you will allow some space so you can separate the insulation from the wires inside, so you can add your alligator clips.

Step 14

Here you see the insulation separated and what you have is 2 wires -sometimes you will have 3 so you have to figure out then which 2 usually the back and white but it can be different so make sure by either testing the lines or find someone who knows or look up the model of your power supply and see which 2 wires are the power and return.

Step 15

Wires are spliced, or stripped from the power supply, applying the same method of removing the insulation from the other line. You would do the same for the inside as well and leave enough exposed to make contact with the alligator clips you are going to use.

Step 16

Alligator clips you are going to use to connect to the power –attaching on clip to each separate wire.

Step 17

Here you are going to connect the alligator clip on to 1 wire and when you get it in “crimp down”, or take your cutting or pliers tool and squeeze tube part of the alligator clip. Start with the back part to the wire where the insulation and wire meet, then work your way toward the alligator clip squeezing and the compressing the sides inward as well so the connections are good and snug. If this come off, then just re apply the steps and make sure they are squeezed well.

Step 18

The final connection of both clips now on each wire so now after you have made sure that the wires are firmly snugged into the alligator clip and you have squeezed them then beging putting insulation tape on the wires.

Step 19

Here is your finished product, after you made connections with the power supply and the alligator clips. Then proceed to wrap the insulation tape in such away that it forms a T so there will be minimal chance of making contact and shorting the unit out.

Step 20

Eureka!!!!!! you made it now  your ready to get anti nano’d you can now connect your unit and be ready for some release.

This is a train transformer Power supply if you use this form instead of a laptop power supply you are going to have to either put in a resistor or a capacitor to slow down the return or the unit will over heat cut off or burn out your unit~~~ and if you add either one- this will go for hours with out issue what you would do is connect the return wire to the capacitor or resistor and then back to the power supple so one end to the unit with the connection to the wire the other end a connection to the transformer direct- you will have to figure out the resistance or capacitance based on your power.

Warning Due to the nature of this device where fluids and electricity will be in the vicinity and exposure to both caution and common sense are going to be required– DO NOT STICK WIRES IN THE BUCKET WHEN IT IS FULL OF THE MIXTURE YOU WILL ELECTROCUTE YOURSELF





How To Make the AntiNano Device

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This Post Has 12 Comments

  1. Dominick

    Hi can you tell me all the materials needed to build your version of the anti nano bucket . I want to build it . Thanks

    1. Aroy Mak

      Hello Dominick, I sent you an email

  2. julien johnston

    Hi Aroy,

    I love how you made your bucket and equipment in your great video. I’d love to see the info and parts we need also if its not too much trouble.

    You make the involved process pretty clear and concise. Thanks for the spectacular work

    1. Aroy Mak

      Hello Julien,
      Thank you for the message and feedback. I have the schematics and the part list ready, but I am still have not decided if I will publish it or not, for two reasons.
      Building it requires some very basic experience with electronics, soldering, making proper connections and although it can be done, someone who is not experienced, neither careful with the power connections, may injure him/her self or others who may use the device. This is my main concern and worry and the mean reason that, although I almost publish it in the past, I changed my mind.
      The other reason is I am selling the device via my eshop, and will be some losses if will put give it free.

      An alternative will be to make it available with a certain amount of donation.
      Then those who have the skills and experience with soldering electronic parts etc. and they can follow the schematics and the parts list, they can get it and build it with parts they can purchase in their countries.
      Thank you for your understanding and patience on this matter.
      IF you are interest, let me know and I will publish it before the end of Dec with the alternative.

  3. Danny from England

    Hello and thanks for the wonderful information.
    How often do you change the fluid mix?
    Once the particles are extracted, can they be filtered from the water/vinegar and use the same mixture again or is it a fresh batch every use?

    Thanks in advance

    1. Aroy Mak

      Thank you Danny from England. I change it every time as I do not like to put back my feet in it again. When you use the bucket, you will know what I mean 🙂 . Filtering out nanosize or even micron size particles, it is possible but in my opinion, it is not worth it. It requires special filters that can filter so small particle size and the time that will be required to filter all the volume of 5-6 gallons, it may be more than a day.

  4. Kris

    Hi, I am so excited to build my bucket!!! I have a few questions before I get started: does it matter if wire is coated or raw? How often is safe to use the bucket? Is it safe to use a plastic garbage can and immerse oneself to the thighs? Or is this overkill and not necessary? One site said you could add magnets… where would these magnets go and what type? And where does one attach the top wires?
    Thank you❣

    1. Aroy Mak

      Hi Kris. Thank you for your comments. Answering your questions:
      1. The wires must have electric insulation around them. I use electric wires instead of speaker wires.
      2. You can use the bucket daily or twice per day, but each session shall not exceed 20-30 mins, or even less if the current and the magnetic fields are strong enough. The first few weeks, have one session every 2-3 days, and as your body gets used, you can increase more often.
      3. It is safe if you use wires with insulation coating. The current that will pass needs to be high to have a strong magnetic field to be efficient.
      4, Yes, you can stick magnets on the outer walls of the bucket before you wrap it with the wire. The magnets can be either Ferrite or Neodymium. The stronger, the better, but take into consideration the size of the magnet. Neodymium will be more efficient as it is stronger and can be smaller than the Ferrite ones.
      5. THe wire around the bucket: One side is attached to the flasher/relay that will automatically switch on and off and allow the current to pass, and therefore the magnetic field will be pulsating ON-OFF, etc. The other side of the wire will be connected to the negative of the power supply.

      NOTE: The electrical resistance of the wire that you will use, in combination with the voltage of the power supply that you will use, will determine the current that will pass from the wire. The size and length of the wire determine the electrical resistance. You will need to know the resistance of the wire before choosing the right power supply. Otherwise, the power supply will be burned fast. The flasher also needs to be rated to operate at the current that will pass through it. Otherwise, it will melt after few seconds.

      Aroy Mak – Yannis


    Hello Yiannis from a mountain top Wales, Question: in the Formula number 3 what is 1/8 cup TSP is TSP (Tri Sodium Phosphate?)
    Also may it also be possible to make a personal request for all the materials needed to build your version of the anti nano bucket with the frequency control unit, i am really enjoying building them, each one is always different, would really like to build your version, as you are versed in this, and i am wanting to get better, thanks for what you and Tony and all of you are doing to help humanity, i see a vision where lots of folks are building this good positive energy, with all this negative charged ions. Love to Crete, ps had some friends in Greece yesterday call me concerned about shedding so linked them to you as only an island away. Best regards Zeeshan and his family of six, four dogs, fourteen ducklings & natural happy bees. Fighting a good fight.

    1. Aroy Mak

      HI Zeeshanm thank you for the comment. Yes TSP is Tri Sodium Phospate. About the components, I will reply to you via email.

  6. mark

    i am trying to make this and wondering how much wire i will need? In my city its hard to find at a good price is it possible to use lamp or speaker wire at a decent gauge? also just realized my power supply ony has one wire. also how would i know the resistance of the wire im buying? thankyou so much i wish i messaged u sooner im literally out now looking for supplies

    1. Aroy Mak

      Hi Mark, the length of the wire it depends on the size of your bucket.

      The good thing though is that even if you have longer cable that is need it to wrap the bucket one time, you can make additional wraps with the extra cable.
      The more “loops” will be the stronger will be the magnetic field.

      For the size of the bucket in the video , I used 100 meter cable.

      The size of the cable was 15 Gauge. You can use any size you like, but this will effect the resistance and therefore the current.

      Between 15-13 gauge will be fin, but keep in mind that the lower the gauge the more current will be demanded.

      You can use lamp or speaker wire, but always check the current rating they have for their insulation. As current passes for 20-30 mins it becomes warm and you want to be able to resist the heat and not melt . For that reason I prefer electric wire as their insulation is rated correctly for the current that will pass.

      You can measure the resistance, u need a simple multimeter, either digital or analog.
      With the two probes you touch the two ends of wire and it will read the resistance.

      Do this first before you choose the power supply, because the resistance of the wire and the voltage will determine the current that will pass through. You want your power supply to be able to supply such current.
      The current (I) will be equal to the voltage (V) divided with the Resistance (R)… I=V/R
      Example, if the output voltage of your power supply is 12V and the resistance of the wire is 1 Ohm, the current will be 12/1= 12 amps.
      If the resistance is 0.5 Ohm then the current will be 24 Amps!!!

      Check the label of the power supply to know if you it can provide sufficient current.
      An electric wire 15 gauge 100 meter it can have 1.4 Ohm resistance.
      In that case the current will be pass will be Almost 8.6 amps if you use 12 volt power supply. So you will need a 12V 10A power supply.
      Also, your power supply appears to have one cable but there are 2 or 3 other cables inside.

      Your connectors / clips and the flasher/relay ( the automatic switch ) that you will use needs to be rated also for higher current from that will pass.

      The relay are usually 12V and the power is in Watts. The Watts are the Voltage x Amp.

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